Stupa party!
The extraordinary Thatluang Festival
A sea of people bringing baskets of sticky rice and other offerings for over a thousand monks, standing behind long lines of tables ready to receive the alms. Such is the extraordinary spectacle on the final day of the Thatluang festival.
The sheer numbers make this an unforgettable sight. Some people are lining up and distributing their alms into rows of bowls and trays that the monks have put out. Others are sitting in groups on mats with their offerings, either chatting quietly or facing the monks, listening to the chants being broadcast on loudspeakers and praying, prior to handing over the contents of their baskets.
There are many more women and children than men, and they look stunning, decked out in their beautiful national dress, the sinh. The silk gives the vibrant colours and fine woven patterns a luxurious sheen, and no two outfits of the thousands on display are the same. It’s the perfect opportunity for group photos, so everyone’s cell phones are out. And so too are professional photographers, who have brought their kit with them and are busy printing out A4 photos for their customers on printers fed by battery power and plastic water bottles full of ink.
It’s the November full moon today and the end of this three day annual festival, the biggest of its kind in Laos. The alms-giving is the main religious focus of the festivities, but it is only one of many elements. In the run-up there have been various other events, and in the streets surrounding the temple there are thousands of stalls and numerous impromptu off-street motorbike and car parking lots, their guardians beckoning in prospective customers with illuminated red batons.
Given how small Vientiane is, it feels as if the whole city is here. There’s everything: stalls selling offerings and street food, but also some with more surprising things like cosmetics, mobile phones and even insurance. The salespeople stand outside their stand armed with a microphone and powerful PA system, doing battle with their neighbours while the crowds amble past. The din is deafening!
Once inside the temple compound, the cacophony only subsides a little. There are more food stalls, a stage with song and dance acts, a funfair and a display of traditional houses which is really just an excuse for the girls (and some boys) to dress up and have their photo taken in national outfits.
Best of all is the festive vibe that reigns. There are lots of families, groups of young people, monks and even elderly couples all milling around. It’s very friendly, with everyone soaking up the atmosphere, taking pictures on their phones and helping others do the same.
To round off the festival, after the sun has gone down there’s a candle-lit procession inside the grounds, followed by fireworks set off from the stupa. As the fireworks splutter into life, the full moon emerges from behind the clouds, exactly above the stupa’s peak, as if to bless the proceedings. What a magical conclusion to a fun and breathtakingly huge party.
